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Introducing...
A '5 Watt' Audio Amplifier with Tone Control .
Here is an audio project using the Philip's TDA2611A, which is one chip of many... in the TDA family.
The TDA2611A is a 5 Watt Audio Amplifier IC...with tone control. I will mainly use it for testing purposes.
If you would like to make the TDA2611A Project, and are in need of an audio amplifier to deliver 5 watts, I have all the information here for you to have a successful project!
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The picture to the right
shows a close-up view of the TDA2611A 5 watt amplifier. Although
I just used a small speaker, one should use a larger speaker (8
ohms) that will deliver the 5 watts when audio clarity is needed.
I overlaid 44 square CM's of a 'bare copper' PCB over the existing circuitry PCB...thereby using it as a heatsink for handling a load up to 5.3 watts. Make sure to use heatsink compound...before your tighten your 3 screws/nuts on the tab portion of the TDA2611A, securing it with the overlay 'bare copper' PCB.
For an inside look into the specifications of the TDA2611A audio amplifer (data sheet), just click on the LINK below. A schematic diagram is also included in the pdf file.
http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/acrobat_download/datasheets/TDA2611A_CNV_2.pdf
Construction of the TDA2611A Project
Components for the Project and the PCB Layout
| R1 220k resistor(1/4 watt) | C1 560pF ceramic capacitor |
| R2 1meg potentiometer | C2 10nF ceramic capacitor |
| R3 47k resistor (1/4 watt)...data sheet calls for 51k | C3 100nF ceramic capacitor |
| R4 1meg potentiometer | C4 100pF ceramic capacitor |
| R5 1k resistor (1/4 watt) | C5 22uF electrolytic capacitor/50 volt rating |
| R6 10 ohm resistor (1/4 watt) | C6 1uF electrolytic capacitor/50 volt rating |
| 8 ohm speaker | C7 47uF electrolytic capacitor/50 volt rating |
| TDA2611A Integrated Circuit | C8 0.1uF ceramic capacitor |
| nothing here............................................................................ | C9 220uF electrolytic capacitor/50 volt rating |

Print out the above image. Once printed, the dimensions of the PCB Layout (the upper drawing) should be 112 mm in length and 80 mm in width...give or take a couple of mm's.
Be sure to use heatsink compound on the underneath of the tab of the IC. Once that is done, you may secure it with 3 screws/nuts, with the three holes going through the tap...overlay...and PCB.
The lowering drawing will give you an idea on how the overall project will look like, when completed. There are also six places where 6 screw/6 nuts will go. This is for the supply voltage terminals...the input terminals...and the speaker (audio out) terminals. There are also 4 BLUE circles. This is to give some type of wooden or metal support, once the project has been completed...or if you prefer to enclose the whole PCB.
Notice R2 and R4 are shown as typical 3 legged surface mount potentiometers. Although if you would like to put 'hand-turnable' pots, just refer to my design picture (further down the webpage), using a metal enclosure. Small gauge wire will be needed, in order to connect the 2 pots to the six holes on the PCB.

Here is a look at the back of the PCB when finally completed.
The 4 corner holes are for mounting purposes. The two top holes will not only secure the PCB, but add tightness to the copper overlay.
Here is an overall inside
view of the project. From the 6 holes (3 for each potentiometer),
I took thin braided copper wire and ran the all the wiring to the
two 1 Meg potentiometers...attached to the topside of the metal
housing
The metal housing came from a scrapped power supply unit. I just took out all the guts from the encloser, and then proceeded to install my completed PCB inside.
There is no power supply with this audio amp, as the source of power is supplied by the device (receiver) that is under test.
There are 3 (2 screws per set) sets of screws on the top of the PCB. The set closest to the left side of the PCB is the INPUT terminals. The set closest to the right side of the PCB is the VOLTAGE SUPPLY terminals. And the set toward the middle bottom of the PCB, is for AUDIO OUTPUT.
There are no speaker wires coming out of the unit, because I used a rather small speaker and enclosed it inside the housing...otherwsie, you would have 3 sets of wires coming out of the enclosure...instead of two sets.
Here is what the finished project looks like. The knob on the left is the 'tone' control and the knob on the right is the 'volume' control.
I will mainly use this device for testing audio outputs on various types of audio amp IC's.
...your friend, Patrick
You are our guest number 1922 as of the 14th of April, 2005